The Glade 4.0

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 Post subject: New Toy
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:30 pm
Posts: 1776
A Nikon D90 SLR Camera (Lens shown did not come with)

Also with various goodies, as well as:

Speedlight SB-600 Flash

Nikon DX 18-55mm Lens

Nikon DX 35mm f/1.8 Lens

Nikon is pretty much top of the food chain (with Canon being their direct competition). I got tired of waiting for Olympus to put out an SLR with a better sensor, and the D90 works like a dream for me (nowhere near a pro photographer).

I would really like to pursue something in photography, and you gotta have the right tools to do that.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:05 pm 
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Location: The Lab
I have D-40 I bought to take pictures of my guitars. It's an amazing camera. Unfortunately, I may have to sign up for some classes to truly explore all of its capabilities.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:13 pm 
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Perfect Equilibrium
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Location: Coffin Corner
The ultimate resource on beginner shooting w/ SLR's and basic optics as they apply to cameras:

http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/

_________________
"It's real, grew up in trife life, the times of white lines
The hype vice, murderous nighttimes and knife fights invite crimes" - Nasir Jones


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:00 pm 
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The artist formerly known as Raber
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I picked up a D40 earlier this year as well. I've been having fun so far with it. There is a lot you can learn on your own just messing around. But yeah, I've thought about taking a class as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:42 pm 
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You may want to check out some online resources as well as any "D40 for Dummies" books, if you want to save some money on classes (unless it's with the intent to go pro).

I was surprised to learn that the three most important elements in photography are NOT the camera, the photographer, and the subject. They are actually: the lighting, the composition, and the subject. What this basically means, is that a 5-year old can pick up a Kodak disposable camera and take a breath-taking photo. So, as long as you can master those three basic elements, you may be able to teach yourself.

From what I have learned so far:

Keeping your camera on "A" setting (or Aperture), or "S" (for Shutter) allow you to have the most freedom. You can also use "P" (Program) mode if there are custom settings you would rather use (but this requires more knowledge, as more factors become involved). "Auto" mode is great for point-n-shoot, but it does not allow for any creativity (outside of post-editing software).

Get a good UV filter to keep on your camera at all times, and a Polarizer filter for your camera when faced with particularly bright, harsh light. A UV filter simply lessens the suns rays, and a Polarizer filters out undefined light and refines it into something that gives captured images better definition.

Invest in a decent photo editing program. As good as you think that shot you just took turned out, chances are, an editing program can make it look even better.

Learn what the maximum ISO setting is for your camera before you start to lose quality to "noise," or that grainy interference look photos can get. ISO is also good for situations where flash photography is not possible, as a higher ISO allows for greater saturation.

Learning F-Stop usage is a must, as well. Basically, the lower the F-Stop, the larger the aperture becomes, and vice versa. This comes in handy when you need to know how much light/what shutter speed is ideal for your subject matter. The best analogy I have heard is the "Play-Do Analogy." In other words, a small aperture (or high F-Stop) will stretch the Play-Do out into a long tube, where everything will be in equal focus, leaving the shutter open longer. Conversely, a wide aperture (or low F-Stop) with flatten the Play-Do into a pancake, where what's closest to you and in front of you (or, the center of the pancake) will be in focus, where the the surrounding area (or the area radiating away from the pancake center) will lose focus, as well as leaving the shutter open a shorter time. For example: If you are shooting a family portrait, you want to use a low F-Stop/faster shutter speed, because the important subject matter will generally be front and center, with the incidentals being in the background or off to the side. On the other hand, if you are taking a picture of a beautiful landscape, you will want to use a higher F-Stop/slower shutter speed to get everything in focus, as the subject matter is over a much broader area.

All I can think of off the top of my head.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:38 pm 
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4


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:00 pm 
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Arathain Kelvar wrote:
4


Eh?


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