SuiNeko wrote:
So my tank is about 40 years old. There are two elements, at 240v, rated at 3kw.
One element tests at 36-38ohm - about right for half the rating, 1.5kw
One tests at infinity - figure its burnt out.
Sound right?
Assuming the two elements were connected in parallel, if they were both originally 36 ohm loads, you're looking at a 3200W draw for the entire unit.
This raises the question - are the individual heating elements rated for 3kW and 240V, or is that the entire unit that has that rating? I assumed the unit was 240V and 3kW.
What I'm inclined to think happened is one of your heating elements oxidized, which caused its resistance to spike. As its resistance climbed, it heated up faster, causing it to oxidize faster - you get the idea. I don't know the construction of your house, but I find it difficult to believe that it's impossible to replace your water heater (which I assume is the device in question) without demolishing the kitchen. It might be a little tricky to pull off, and require more plumbing expertise than you personally possess, but there has to be a way to do it. I would advise calling a plumber and getting an estimate.
You really should replace the unit. The failure that burned out one element is probably lurking in the future for the second. It's only a matter of time before you have to replace it, anyway. You're also operating the unit at half capacity, which I would imagine isn't entirely friendly for your energy bill. Furthermore, there have been a lot of advances in both the electrical and mechanical sides of heating and cooling in the last 40 years. Whether you're heating water or air, units are a lot more efficient. What this means is you'll be replacing your old unit with one that costs less money to operate.
Finally, buy local. People suggesting Lowe's and Home Depot have overlooked the fact that you're British. Different countries use different signals for electrical power transfer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_power_around_the_worldWall outlets in the United Kingdom are 230V RMS at 50Hz. As you can see from the table, wall outlets in the U.S. are 120V RMS at 60Hz (though we actually broadcast 240V from power stations, and have 240V wall outlets for large appliances). The real problem is the frequency. An American appliance designed for a 60Hz electrical signal fails spectacularly (i.e. goes boom) when plugged into an outlet receiving a 50Hz signal. There are adapters available to convert the 50Hz signal into a 60Hz signal, but frankly, save yourself some headache and buy stuff designed for British outlets.