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 Post subject: What sorcery is this?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:56 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:33 pm 
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Obviously, it's sufficiently advanced technology.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:51 pm 
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Huh...wonder how long it last and if you can use it on glass.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 11:08 pm 
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I'm too frightened to check out the MSDS...


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:59 am 
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Midgen wrote:
I'm too frightened to check out the MSDS...

^--- ditto.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:37 am 
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Surprisingly, it's not that scary.

The topcoat is basically just acetone with a little silica (i.e. sand) mixed in. Acetone has pretty low toxicity, but due to the silica you definitely want to wear a respirator while you're spraying this stuff around.

The bottom coat is where all the interesting stuff is: Xylene, Naphtha, Hexane, Methylethylketone (Butanone), Toluene, and a proprietary polymer

The composition is similar to gasoline if you removed the benzene and long chain hydrocarbons (heptane, octane, etc.). As for the proprietary polymer, you're probably already familiar with another highly hydrophobic and lipophobic (and previously proprietary) polymer: PTFE (a.k.a Teflon). It's not exactly PTFE or it would have to be listed as such on the MSDS, but all signs point to it being something substantially similar. Another strong hint to this effect comes from their FAQ:

Quote:
What is the working temperature range for Ultra-Ever Dry SE 7.6.110?
Answer: The working temperature range for the product is from -30°F to 300°F (-34°C to 149°C) once it has been applied. It has been effective at temperatures up to 500°F, but we would recommend further testing for any application that will see temperatures above 300°F (260°C).


Wikipedia wrote:
The pyrolysis of PTFE is detectable at 200 °C (392 °F), and it evolves several fluorocarbon gases[21] and a sublimate. An animal study conducted in 1955 concluded that it is unlikely that these products would be generated in amounts significant to health at temperatures below 250 °C (482 °F).[22] More recently, however, a study documented birds having been killed by these decomposition products at 202 °C (396 °F), with unconfirmed reports of bird deaths as a result of non-stick cookware heated to as little as 163 °C (325 °F).[21][23]

While PTFE is stable and nontoxic, it begins to deteriorate after the temperature of cookware reaches about 533 K (260 °C; 500 °F), and decomposes above 623 K (350 °C; 662 °F).[24] These degradation by-products can be lethal to birds, and can cause flu-like symptoms in humans.


Whatever it is, it's probably completely nontoxic at normal temperatures for the same reason that Teflon is. Being highly hydrophobic and lipophobic, your body chemistry simply has no way to interact with it. This is one of the reasons for using Teflon-coated implants in medicine.

TLDR;

More or less they've come up with a do-it-yourself way to apply a Teflon-like polymer coating to most normal materials using pretty typical solvents. You don't want to breath this stuff while applying it due to said solvents and the silica in the topcoat. Drinking the top or bottom coat would be like drinking acetone and gasoline respectively. Don't do that. The "magic ingredient" itself is probably extremely inert in the human body.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:42 pm 
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So if you coated your body with this stuff and jumped in a lake...what happens?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:49 pm 
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Nitefox wrote:
So if you coated your body with this stuff and jumped in a lake...what happens?


I was pondering a version of this question, but specific to 'what if I drank it?'... trying to comprehend what that would mean in terms of the next glass of water I drank :p


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Nitefox wrote:
So if you coated your body with this stuff and jumped in a lake...what happens?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Nitefox wrote:
So if you coated your body with this stuff and jumped in a lake...what happens?

You sink and suffocate (or drown if you didn't coat your lungs).

If you were particle man then the lake would "get you instead".

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:40 am 
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I'd like to coat my windshield in that stuff..

Heck, the entire car!

And my eye glasses!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:47 am 
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That is what I wanted to know. If it is transparent for use on glass.

Edit: Ok, it isn't for use on glass.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:24 am 
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Doesn't the video show it being used on glass? The green square thing?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:09 am 
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Midgen wrote:
Doesn't the video show it being used on glass? The green square thing?


I think that's more a ceramic tile. /shrug

Quote:
UltraEverDryStore 1 hour ago
Ultra Ever Dry is not 100% clear at this time and is not recommended to apply on a screen at this time.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:50 am 
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I'd love to spray this on my uniforms so they don't get totally covered in mud, but then how would I wash them?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:43 am 
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Oooh... I want it on my tent!

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When he's underwater does he get wet? Or does the water get him instead?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:56 am 
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Serienya wrote:
Oooh... I want it on my tent!


Or not. I just read the tox stuff that was posted above.

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When he's underwater does he get wet? Or does the water get him instead?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:18 am 
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I think once it sets you are ok.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:18 am 
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Diamondeye wrote:
I'd love to spray this on my uniforms so they don't get totally covered in mud, but then how would I wash them?

Dry clean only?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:24 am 
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That'd get expensive.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:56 am 
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Rorinthas wrote:
Diamondeye wrote:
I'd love to spray this on my uniforms so they don't get totally covered in mud, but then how would I wash them?

Dry clean only?

Since it becomes water tight that fabric would no longer be breathable, I would imagine it'd get hot as hell.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:59 am 
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Hopwin wrote:
Since it becomes water tight that fabric would no longer be breathable, I would imagine it'd get hot as hell.

It would depend on the fabric. It's not necessarily becoming watertight -- you're just coating the fibers in a hydrophobic film. If the weave was porous to begin with, it could remain so. As such, it would breathe, but would also permit water through gaps in the weave. So the water would run off both the outside and the inside of the fabric.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:18 am 
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Diamondeye wrote:
That'd get expensive.

Not so you might think. Remember, first and foremost, that repelling water, mid, oil, and other sorts of substances means that your uniform will not get dirty at anywhere near the rate it does now. The chemical process of "getting dirty" involves phenomena that is being inhibited by the coating. You wouldn't have to clean the uniform as often, so dry cleaning isn't as cost prohibitive.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:06 pm 
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I totally want to coat my motorcycle with that stuff.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:55 pm 
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I wonder if this would serve as a semi-permanent rust/corriosion/pitting preventative for hand tools.

I have to keep all of my hand planes, chisels and other similar hand tools coated in a thin film of camilla oil to prevent rust and pitting. The oil is problematic when working with wood that might be stained by it (i.e. soft Spruce or even Maple), or if you are working on something that will be glued or finished.

As it is now, just to be safe, I have to remove the oil from the working surfaces, do my work, then clean up and re-oil. It's quite a pain...


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