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 Post subject: New Tires
PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 5:40 pm 
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are expensive!


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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 6:56 pm 
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This is one area where I truly believe in making a good investment. Tires are the first line of defense for your safety, and buying a good set not only increases this threshold, but increases the longevity of maintaining this threshold.

If you are looking for car tires, I'd highly recommend the Bridge Potenza line. All season choice would be the RE960 Pole Position which last over 40,000 miles and have outstanding performance dry (not quite summer tire level, but close) and do not skate or become greasy in the heat, cold or rain. They even work well in the snow, provided you adjust your driving.

I've also had RE90's which are fantastic, awesome dry grip at all temperatures, but suffer in the rain. Right now I am driving BFG G-Force SuperSport M/S which don't quite have the 40,000 mile+ reputation but perform very well in all conditions and temperatures.

If you are out West where there is no snow but only rain, I'd recommend the RE960's.

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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 7:17 pm 
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I put 4 of these:
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tiresele ... uctID=2022
Spoiler:
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On my truck about a month or so ago. Set me back about $900. But I <3 em.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 10:16 pm 
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Müs wrote:
I put 4 of these:
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tiresele ... uctID=2022
Spoiler:
Image



On my truck about a month or so ago. Set me back about $900. But I <3 em.

Isn't that worth more than your truck?

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 10:43 pm 
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Screeling wrote:
Müs wrote:
I put 4 of these:
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tiresele ... uctID=2022
Spoiler:
Image



On my truck about a month or so ago. Set me back about $900. But I <3 em.

Isn't that worth more than your truck?


0.o

Its about 1/30 of the value of my truck :p

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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:48 pm 
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Didn't really need advice, as I had already paid for them prior to the post. Yokohama S. Drives at 225/45/17. Tread rating at 30k but I got a 40k warranty, wonder how that'll work out.
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 6:39 am 
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It sucks that anymore most coupes and sedans require racing tires.

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:27 am 
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Next day, flat tire.

So, I found out I have a cracked rim.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:01 pm 
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Eesh. New tire okay?

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Yeah, the tires are okay. It's not a defect that will hurt the tire (unless I drive on a flat).. Visually, it looks like there's just a little pin prick in the paint of my rim, had to put soapy water on my wheel just to see where there could be a leak. Damn near impossible to notice otherwise.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 4:59 pm 
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The only caveat to the Bridgestone RE series is the RE92A that they put on the WRX prior to 2009. They're terrible. I'm doing what I can to wear them out so I can get something decent on 'em, most likely Yokohamas or Pirellis.


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 3:40 pm 
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Just dropped another $180 on a replacement rim. I'm up to about $1k on my car this month and that's before I've even made my payment.

Blah. At least it happened while I'm getting two paychecks.


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 6:55 pm 
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Mother.... ****.

Got en email four hours later saying that my wheel (of which they've got 20 versions on the site) is actually discontinued and they don't have any. Of course, my card has already been charged so I'll probably be out $200 bucks for a month while it gets refunded.

I'm having the worst luck with e-commerce lately.


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:53 pm 
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Tirerack?

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 11:31 pm 
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No one has them, the line has been discontinued... If someone can find a single Enkei Evo 6 17x7 with a 5x114.3 bolt and +42 offset in Anthracite color, I'll be nice to you for an entire week.


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:10 am 
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Can you get it welded or something? If its a tiny little crack, Hell, maybe some mighty putty :P

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:22 am 
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I would not recommend weld repairs on wheels. The heat distortion and deformation will destroy the wheels balance which might not even be correctable with counterbalance weights. It can also embrittle the aluminum alloy which are toughened through a process similar to tempering so they can withstand sudden loading and unloading (i.e. hitting a sharp bump or pothole).

Lenas, my only advice to you short of buying a new set of rims (mine were leaking air last year which I also had to replace) is if those wheels are OEM parts for a particular make/model/Model Year is to find a message board for that particular M/M/MY and see if anyone is selling a set of rims for cheap. For example, I found a set of factory BBS rims (with new OEM tires) for $400. The tires alone are worth over $600, so you may be able to sell a pair of them and make your money back, keep the third as a spare and use the fourth.

Short of that, if the leak isn't severe (I lost about 10PSIG every 3-4 days at which point the leak would reduce in rate), you can keep airing up your tires prior to driving at every gas stop. I did this, but I highly discourage it as it can lead to dangerous scenarios with unequal tire pressures which is worse than overpressurization or underpressurization.

The other thing I thought of is this. We use this material made by Enecon called Duralloy. It is essentially a pig putty, but forms a very hard metal finish, basically like a mild carbon steel. We use it for temporary repairs on leaking piping, carbon steel. It can form a pressure boundary rated for up to 150PSI. However, the pressure sealing is highly dependent on the quality of application so for an irregular shape like a leaking rim, the quality of the seal will undoubtedly be lower. However, it might be high enough to withstand tire pressure (35 PSIG typically). I would have given it a shot, had I thought about it on my leaking wheel. Be very careful not to apply too much as you could destroy the wheel's balance beyond correction.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:51 am 
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The leak is severe enough to expect a flat tire when I leave my office. I don't have a spare, and these aren't OEM. I'm just going to have to buy a new set.


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 12:33 pm 
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Probably the right call, if not the cheap one.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 4:34 pm 
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Can't decide between bronze/gunmetal. Screeling likes the darker ones. Other opinions?
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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 4:35 pm 
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I like the darker rims.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 4:47 pm 
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I was originally leaning bronze, but it seems damn near everyone prefers the gunmetal color. Interesting.


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 4:59 pm 
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I'm telling you... bronze looks like you were too poor to get the gold.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 5:14 pm 
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Just go balls out. 22" chrome rims. Ghetto tank style, man, rollin' in the Civic Ghetto tank.


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 5:34 pm 
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I love bronze, but the color doesn't really work with the blue. The lighter color pulls things together a bit, however...eh, it's a toss-up.


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